{"id":19896,"date":"2023-10-02T21:07:35","date_gmt":"2023-10-02T19:07:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/silvo-karo_slovenia\/"},"modified":"2023-11-05T15:03:40","modified_gmt":"2023-11-05T13:03:40","slug":"silvo-karo_slovenia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/silvo-karo_slovenia\/","title":{"rendered":"Silvo Karo (Slovenia) – climber"},"content":{"rendered":"

Stars of Banskofilfest 2023<\/strong><\/p>\n

Silvo Karo (Slovenia) – <\/strong>He is one of the greatest protagonists of the golden age of Slovenian mountaineering between the 1980s and 1990s, honoured with the Piolet d’Or for Lifetime Achievement, the world’s most prestigious award in mountaineering during 2022.\u00a0 In 2007 he founded the Mountain Film Festival in Slovenia, which aims to increase the production of Slovenian mountain films and popularize mountain culture. The both festivals in Slovenia and in Bansko city, Bulgaria are proud members of The Alliance of Mountain Film Festivals together. He will present his story <\/strong>\u00a0“Light and Fast” on 24th of November, 18:00 h, Big Hall, Culture Center “Nikola Vapcarov”, Bansko city.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Silvo\u2019s path took him from the romantic, analog 1970s to the fast-paced, digital life of the new millennium, from the rural countryside to brutal Patagonian storms, endless Himalayan expanses, Karakoram granite spires soaring into the sky, Indian monsoons, vertical big walls of Yosemite, and the beautiful Julian Alps. He was a member of the rock and roll generation that brought energy and rhythm onto mountain faces. Commitment, boldness, enthusiasm, and an honest friendship produced the Three Musketeers: Fran\u010dek Knez, Janez Jegli\u010d, and Silvo Karo. The big walls of Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Bhagirathi were the milestones of his career, which included Himalayan giants as well as 8a sport climbing. He followed the trends of cutting edge alpinism and developed a strong affinity for climbing light and fast. His essay Patagonia: Terra Mystica was published in Voices from the Summit (2000). The film Cerro Torre South Face won the Best Mountaineering Film award at the 1989 Trento festival. His love for film eventually led to the Festival gorni\u0161kega filma (Mountain Film Festival), which he started in 2007. He\u2019s been a member of the French Groupe de Haute Montagne since 1991, became an honorary member of the Alpine Club from Great Britain in 2010, and was awarded the Order of Merit by Slovenia\u2019s president.<\/p>\n

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Rock \u2018n\u2019 Roll on the Wall \u2013 a long-awaited autobiography of the protagonist of the golden age of Slovenian mountaineering, led by the call of the mountains from the rural countryside to brutal Patagonian storms, vast Himalayan heights, radiant chimneys of the Karakorum granite, the Greenland horizon, Indian monsoon, the Julian Alps, and Yosemite precipices. His mountaineering career was most marked by the great walls of Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Bhagirathi and the dedication, audacity, zeal, and sincere friendship that gave birth to the alliance of three musketeers \u2013 Silvo Karo, Fran\u010dek Knez, and Janez Jegli\u010d \u2013 Johan.<\/div>\n
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Picture: Silvo Karo climbing Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, in 1993 \u00a0Silvo Karo archive<\/a><\/p>\n

Karo has climbed over 2000 routes and made more than 300 first ascents. A selection of his most significant contributions outside Slovenia include:<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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1983:<\/strong>\u00a0Fitz Roy, east face, new route, Devil\u2019s Dihedral (6a A2 90\u00b0). Aguja Val Bois, east face, new route. D.E. (5 100\u00b0)
\n1985:<\/strong>\u00a0Yalung Kang, north face, new route, reached 8,100m. Grandes Jorasses, north face, third ascent of Rolling Stones (6b A3 80\u00b0)
\n1986<\/strong>: Cerro Torre, east face, new route, Hell\u2019s Direct (7a A4 M6 95\u00b0)
\nBroad Peak, normal route Torre Egger, southeast face, new route, Psycho Vertical (6c A3 90\u00b0). El Mocho, north face, new route, Grey Yellow Arrow (7a A0)
\n1987:<\/strong>\u00a0Lhotse Shar, southeast ridge, reached 7,300m 1987-88. Cerro Torre, south face, new route (6b A4 75\u00b0)
\n1990:<\/strong>\u00a0Bhagirathi III, west face, new route (6b A4 85\u00b0). Everest, west ridge to 7,500m
\n1993:<\/strong>\u00a0El Capitan, Wyoming Sheep Ranch (5.10 A5)
\n1996:<\/strong>\u00a0Nalumasortoq, new route, Mussel Power (7a A3). El Capitan, Salath\u00e9 Wall in 10h 25min. Half Dome, Direct Northwest Face, 11h 20mins (speed record at that time)
\n1997:<\/strong>\u00a0El Capitan, West Face (5.11c) in eight hours car to car
\n1999:<\/strong>\u00a0Fitz Roy, west face, Ensueno, second overall and first free ascent (6b+ obl 45\u00b0). Fitz Roy, Slovak Route, alpine style with new variation from Glaciar Torre (6c 40\u00b0)
\n2000:<\/strong>\u00a0La Esfinge, new route, Cruz del Sur (7b)<\/a>
\n2002:<\/strong>\u00a0Grand Pilier d\u2019Angle, Divine Providence to Mont Blanc summit
\n2003:<\/strong>\u00a0Cerro Murallon, first ascent of main summit
\n2005:<\/strong>\u00a0Cerro Torre, southeast ridge, new route, Slovenian Sit Start<\/a>\u00a0(in a single push of 28 hours; 7a A2 70\u00b0). Aguja Poincenot, Sperone degli Italiani, second ascent (and first of this route to the summit, 6c A3).
\n2006:<\/strong>\u00a0Trango Tower, Eternal Flame, first one-day ascent (7a A2 M5)
\n2009:<\/strong>\u00a0Tofana de Rozes, south face, Goodbye 1999 (7b on sight, repeat). Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Punta Brendal southeast face, Nero su Bianco (7b on sight, repeat). Meru Central, attempt on the then unclimbed Shark\u2019s Fin in alpine style.<\/p>\n

During all this time he made many new routes, first free ascents, and speed climbs in his native Julian and Kamnik Alps, including mountain routes such as Zaumak Nerva (7c) that were the most difficult in the country at the time. At his peak he was redpointing 8a.<\/p>\n

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Stars of Banskofilfest 2023 Silvo Karo (Slovenia) – He is one of the greatest protagonists of the golden age of Slovenian mountaineering between the 1980s and 1990s, honoured with the Piolet d’Or for Lifetime Achievement, the world’s most prestigious award in mountaineering during 2022.\u00a0 In 2007 he founded the Mountain Film Festival in Slovenia, which […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":21,"featured_media":19894,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[461],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19896"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/21"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=19896"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19896\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":19902,"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19896\/revisions\/19902"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/19894"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=19896"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=19896"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.banskofilmfest.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=19896"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}